Hiking Esther Mountain in the Adirondacks

I first discovered the Adirondacks from one of my best friends in college who was living in Hawaii at the time. She sent me a picture of Whiteface’s stony summit path and said, “you have to go there.” Naturally, I drove four hours the next morning (luckily it was the weekend), drove the road up Whiteface, and indulged in the best foliage I had ever seen. Still possibly the best foliage in all my years living in New England since.

I mean look at those colors. I took the photos of Whiteface Mountain below back in October 2016. I had only survived the Franconia Ridge the summer prior and had no idea the mountains and views in store when I’d move to Massachusetts the following year.

Little did I know that five years later I’d hike up the very mountain that first introduced me to the Adirondacks.

Whiteface Mountain in October 2020

Featuring a naive me, thinking I wouldn’t take on the Adirondack 46 at some point.

It also comes in at 4,867 feet, making it one of the highest peaks in the Adirondacks. Of course this places Whiteface on the 46er list (New York’s 46 highest peaks). Along one trail to Whiteface is a short detour to Esther Mountain.

On my hike up Whiteface, we took a slight detour in the wrong direction. When we approached the trail sign for Esther, it read, “path not maintained or marked.” Dejected from the detour, we trudged onward to Whiteface. After all, I wasn’t chasing the 46er list. I was there to spend time outside, and see the foliage. Not push on to a viewless summit in uncharted terrain.

Joke’s on me because three years after my Whiteface ascent, I decided I wanted to tackle the 46 highest peaks in the Adirondacks. So here I was with a free Saturday and a craving for a good climb. The weather was sunny and the temperature was moderate. I made a go for it!

Last weekend, I parked at the Atmospheric Sciences Research Center at 110 Marble Mt Ln, Wilmington, NY 12997. Plenty of parking here, but be sure to not park at the center itself. The trail is indicated with a visible sign.

From the start of the trail, it’s a lovely (short-lived) flat path before the 2,000 foot climb begins. A real-world, snow-covered stair climber. What more could you wish for?

Trail Route from Strava

An out-and-back 6.3 miles with about 2,800 feet of elevation gain.

The great part in summer is that the sunshine is covered for this brutal, sweaty climb. The best part in winter when all the tree branches are bare, is that the sun shines just enough to warm your uncovered face, while the rest of your body is fired up.

I love a good climb, and Esther was no different. At about .8 miles, you reach Marble Mountain, roughly 2,700 feet. A great break spot, complete with rocks to sit on and a view worth gazing at. When you’re done, the next leg of the trip continues to climb (shocking, I know), up to Lookout Mountain at 4,075 feet.

Snowshoes are actually required in the Adirondacks during the winter with more than 8 inches of snow.

The trail was very packed down, so I used microspikes on the ascent. I thought I’d try out my new snowshoes on the descent and they were incredible. These Winter Walker snowshoes from L.L.Bean are super affordable and did me well on a 4,000 footer! They are currently on sale too!

Esther Trail

The iconic Esther sign I referenced earlier is at this point, where you can either turn left for Whiteface, or head right, to the “not maintained” path. The beauty of winter (and several snowshoers before you) is having a very clear path outlined for you. I never faltered from the trail.

After a bit more climbing (several hundred feet), I soaked up the summit to myself. Everyone I have talked to Esther about always brings up the summer mudfest, or the lack of summit views. I’m not sure if it was because this was my first hike back in the Adirondacks after months away with marathon training, or if there were several feet of snow that elevated me, but I loved the far-off views of Whiteface I saw.

I’m a little biased because I also love winter hiking. A lot. I spent about an hour on the summit wanting to enjoy the perfect day before I headed down.

When I reached my car, I clocked in about 2,800 feet of climbing in 6.3 miles of going out-and-back on the Marble Mountain trail to the Esther trail.

The mountain is apparently named after Esther, a fifteen-year-old girl who was the first known person to summit. Turns out, she hiked up here just for the love of hiking. How fitting considering that was the exact way I felt all day up there. Hiking up Esther Mountain in the winter is definitely the way to go.

This was my 21st peak of the 46. Here’s to many more summit smiles!

If you enjoyed this trail review, check out these mountains:

Cascade and Porter Mountains in the ADKs

Twins, Zealand, Bonds Traverse in the Whites

The Best Local Hike in Western Massachusetts

5 4,000 Footers in Vermont

Lake Placid 9er Hiking Challenge

I never grow tired of the beauty of these majestic mountains.

If I’m being honest, the Lake Placid 9 originally didn’t appeal to me. I love the brutal nature of a long day hike. Of miles and hours spent climbing a couple thousand feet for the triumphant feeling at the summit. Even if the view isn’t there.

I first heard about the Lake Placid 9 after hiking a couple of the ADK 46. I thought, why spend my limited time in these gorgeous mountains on very short hikes? Well it turns out, these short hikes sure know how to hold their own.

When mapping out my fall foliage adventures, I usually spend one weekend in the Adirondacks and the rest chasing the colors in New Hampshire. This year, after spending an early September weekend in the Adirondacks showing my parents the beauty New York has to offer, I decided to spend more time in upstate NY. Instead of New Hampshire. I know, I hardly recognized myself too.

My parents were up for a short hike, so I picked the shortest one of the Lake Placid 9: Cobble Hill. After this hike, I had an idea.

What if I combine my fall foliage chasing adventures with this short hiking challenge? It’d motivate me to get out there, and I’d gain more experience up in these rugged mountains. Plus, I’m a sucker for the foliage photos.

And thus began my multiple trips to Keene and Lake Placid, NY in September to October, with one final lap in November.

Over the span of 31.31 miles, I climbed 10,388 ft along these 9 summits. Here’s how I broke down the challenge:

1. Cobble Hill

Distance: 2.89 mi

Elevation Gain: 610 ft

Location: Lake Placid, NY

With my parents visiting for a short weekend, I wanted them to experience an ADK hike without too much exhaustion. Since we were staying in Lake Placid, I figured why not finally check out Cobble Hill.

We hiked the steep, shorter way up, and took the longer, gradual way down. I highly recommend this route because you get a bit of rock climbing with a rope ascending, but descend on a lovely trail walk next to a private pond. It’s a great way to get your feet wet starting out on this challenge!

My route to Cobble Hill is above.

2. Mt. Jo

Third trek up this mountain gave way to a new view!

Distance: 1.94 mi

Elevation Gain: 761 ft

Location: North Elba, NY

Technically this was my third time hiking up this mountain. Every time I hit the trail, my hope to find the iconic view is strong. This hope slowly withers away as I simply couldn’t find the lookout point.

After two failed attempts, I wasn’t leaving the summit this time around without seeing the heart-shaped lake in its entirety. Aptly named, Heart Lake. You’re in luck, because my determined self found it this time so you won’t have to hike up multiple times (unless you choose to!).

Mt. Jo is an extremely popular mountain because of the trails, location, and views. When you arrive at the ADK Mountain Club Loj, you’ll pay $15 as a non-member for a full day or $7 for a half day. Depending on the weekend, you may get lucky with an afternoon. If it’s peak foliage season on a late September or early October weekend, you may way to

After parking, you embark on a short traverse before finding two roads diverged in the woods. You can take the short way, or the long way. I’ve never taken the long way, but be prepared for some stairclimbing if you take the short route.

The trail is a swift one mile up, and I took the same route back. Stay cautious heading down on the rocks, especially if you’re taking this on in the fall where often times rocks are wet due to those rainy autumn forecasts.

Tip: The view at the summit isn’t the best view. The best view is easy to miss. When you’re near the ladders, there’s a trail a few steps away that is sure to give you a reason to love Mt. Jo.

My route is on the left.

3. Mt. Van Hoevenberg

Distance: 4.7 mi

Elevation Gain: 1,047 ft

Location: Lake Placid, NY

Mt. Van Hoevenberg has two trails to the summit: a newly constructed one, and the old one. I was already familiar with the ADK Loj area, so I chose the older path. The parking here is extremely limited – maybe less than ten cars can fit. I went at a less popular time of day, so it worked in my favor.

The distance of this hike is longer than Mt. Jo, but the first mile is a simple walk in the woods. It’s quite lovely! After climbing 1,000 feet in roughly a mile, expansive views of the valley open up. This hike is a true gem!

It’s definitely one I’d love to revisit in winter when the peaks are snow-capped. The trails are an out-and-back, unless you have another car to park on the ski area side where the new trail begins.

Here’s my route:

The trail to Mt. Van Hoevenberg.

4. Big Crow Mountain

A solo summit on a moody evening.

Distance: 1.34 mi

Elevation Gain: 610 ft

Location: Keene, NY

When I entered Keene for this hike, the clouds decided to join me. I knew it was a short distance, so I thought I’d knock it out and if I got a view, I’d be two for two. The parking lot for Big Crow is also the lot for one of the routes up Hurricane. An AWD vehicle would be best as the last mile felt a little sketchy in my RAV4, but still doable. This road isn’t maintained in the winter months, so get this hike in in the summer or fall from this trailhead.

A speedy, consistent climb of 600 feet in under three-quarters of a mile again opened to wide-scaping views of these mountains that are slowly feeling like home to me. I set up my tripod as the clouds rolled in, took a few pictures at the top, and headed back down.

I made a mental note to come back to hike Hurricane from this parking lot since I was now familiar with the drive up.

Here’s my route:

Route map above to Big Crow Mountain.

5. Baxter Mountain

Distance: 3 mi

Elevation Gain: 869 ft

Location: Keene, NY

After the stormy wonder of Big Crow, I knew I had to try out Baxter on this trip up to Lake Placid despite the rainy forecast. I woke up to the steady pitter-patter of raindrops. Contemplating just driving back home, I thought, why not just get out for a three miler?

I made my way over to Keene and parked along the road for this trailhead. The sprinkles fell from the sky and with each step, my disappointment of seeing a view grew. On the way to the summit, there are great viewpoints (arguably better than the summit!). For the fifth time on my Lake Placid 9er journey, I lucked out with the views.

Tip: Always go for it when there’s light rain and you don’t think you’ll get a view. You may just end up with this.

My route is on the right. The photos are where the viewpoints are.

If you’re tackling the challenge, head to the summit to say hello, then stop for the views on the way back.

6. Bear Den Mountain

Distance: 3.82 mi

Elevation Gain: 1,542 ft

Location: Wilmington, NY

The day I embarked up Bear Den was a toasty one. A crisp marshmallow in the campfire on a summer night. Quite the opposite of my previous visit to the mountains with the rainy hike up Baxter. Park at the Whiteface Mountain Ski Center and you’re right at the trailhead. The first mile of this hike doubles as a mountain biking route, so be aware if you have a furry friend with you. The trail’s switchbacks keep things interesting as you make your way up. Just tell yourself you’re almost there, trust me, it helps.

It doesn’t help, but every step is a step closer to the summit! I was in absolute awe atop the summit. The foliage, in unison with the summery weather, lit Whiteface Mountain on fire. It was incredible to gaze my eyes upon.

After awhile of solitude on the summit, I realized the group I passed quite some time ago never summited. As my mind pondered, my eyes wandered. A couple odd colors caught my eye. Those little dots were the other hikers! They had made their way to a rocky surface across the way.

I was curious where they had turned for that added bit of solitude (plus a different angle!). When I headed down, I realized this was another case of the Mt. Jo hidden treasure.

The view of Bear Den’s summit.

As you approach the Bear Den summit, you turn left. Instead, turn right at this sign. There is a very well-trodden trail that leads to that open-rock summit with these views of Bear Den’s summit.

Here’s my route, including the totally-worth-it right turn detour.

7.  Pitchoff Mountain

The famous Balanced Rocks!

Distance: 4.15 mi

Elevation Gain: 1,744 ft

Location: Lake Placid, NY

I was saving Pitchoff for a perfect day. The summit itself is hardly impressive, but a steady climb leads you there with views to the right of Cascade and Porter. It’s neat to see where you’ve hiked before.

After the summit, I returned back to finally see Balanced Rocks. It doesn’t look like much on the trail, but it’s another iconic view like Heart Lake from Mt. Jo. I’ve seen it from the road more times than I can count. Two rocks sit on a very open summit looking as if you could just flick them and they’d fall off. Almost like the Glen Boulder trail in the White Mountains.

Truly the perfect sunset hike in the Adirondacks.

You’ll have incredible water views from here, as well as a great shot of the Olympic jumping complex. It’s a phenomenal sunset spot if you decide to take this mountain on later in the day. The trail is easy to follow with a headlamp at night afterwards.

Here’s my route to both Pitchoff Mountain and Balanced Rocks.

8. Catamount Mountain

Distance: 4 mi

Elevation Gain: 1,624 ft

Location: Wilmington, NY

Oh, Catamount. When researching the Lake Placid 9, this hike was advertised as fun with a side of scary. I took this trail on thinking I’d get Catamount done by the early afternoon with enough time to also trek up Hurricane in the same day. This hike didn’t go as planned at all!

The elevation gain was serious and the hike feels very isolated on a weekday. The trail itself is well-marked and easy to follow. The “fun” comes into play when you’re closer to the summit and features all sorts of rocks to climb. Everyone’s favorite is this little sliver to climb up and through in order to continue the hike.

If I was alone, I think it would’ve felt more enjoyable, but when I hike with my dog, she occupies my mind. I worry about her moves and how she’s going to climb up. The drop is a little steep. After this point, the rest of the trail is smooth sailing.

I would advise against hiking this one on a rainy day, which the summit for me ended up being a little rainy. After eight summits out of nine, I was bound to have a clouded summit. It was fitting it was the toughest one for me! I was able to sneak a peek of what some of the summit views might’ve looked like on my descent.

My route to Catamount Mountain.

9. Hurricane Mountain

Incredible views all around atop Hurricane.

Distance: 5.47 mi

Elevation Gain: 1,581 ft

Location: Keene, NY

The final peak for me was Hurricane Mountain, and as I told myself a month earlier, I was going to park where I did for Big Crow. This trailhead is a popular summer one as it’s the shortest ascent to the famous Hurricane Mountain fire tower.

I made it just in time before winter entered the mountains and the road would have to be maintained (which it isn’t). At the end of November, I lucked out with a beautiful day to myself on this summit. I summitted swiftly, to my surprise. This hike turned out to be one of my favorites. Catamount for me came in as one with the most elevation gain, but Hurricane is the longest distance-wise. Though after hiking the NH 48 and a few of the ADK 46, a 5.5 mile hike feels light in my mind.

Maybe it was the solitude, or the fire tower, or even the fact that it was shoulder season, so all the foliage chasers sat this one out that day. Whatever it was, it sure felt good to end in this moment.

The hike up Hurricane Mountain offers incredible views from the summit, as well as from the fire tower.

My very straightforward route is on the left.

Are you ready for a winter challenge? Take on the Lake Placid 9 in the winter months to earn a special patch for the added difficulty of navigating winter.

Would you hike these nine mountains? Let me know!

Tips for Winter Hiking With Your Pup

The first thing people tell you when you move to New England is that winter is brutal. Obviously I didn’t grow up here, so I didn’t have the experience of shoveling for hours in the morning or having to walk to school in freezing temperatures. That might be why winter is such a beauty to me.

As someone who grew up without a single snowflake (except that one time Dallas turned into a winter wonderland), the winter season is a novelty to me each year. I keep wondering when I’ll turn bitter toward the season, but it hasn’t happened yet. Here’s why I think it hasn’t: I discovered winter activities.

Hiking is one of my favorite things to do, so I had to try it out in winter. Once I got a dog, I knew with the right measures, she’d be able to enjoy the outdoors too. Here is what works for us when we hit the trail:

Tip 1: Know your dog’s capabilities.

You know your pet best and know what they can handle. I never underestimate a dog’s ability given that most love being in the wild (and I’ve seen a Dachshund hike the same mountains my Aussie does), but obviously there are limits based on breed and size.

From a young age, my pup was conditioned to the trails. At three and four months she was trained on short, local hikes with little to no elevation gain. Slowly, she worked her way up. She can crush any mountain and elevation gain. It didn’t come as a surprise when she started to take on 4,000 footers in New Hampshire and New York. But we definitely didn’t venture off on one before we knew she was ready.

If you don’t have the White Mountains in your backyard, there are still ways for you to mimic an intense hike without the massive peaks. Here’s how:

Find a long trail, ideally with decent elevation gain. You can add difficulty in three ways: (1) do the trail twice (or more), (2) add a backpack to your dog’s back with water bottles inside, and (3) hike in various weather conditions or seasons.

Tip 2: Pick an appropriate hike.

Whether you’re starting off hiking with your dog, or you and your dog are more seasoned out there, the hike you pick is the most important decision you’ll make that day. If you aren’t capable of carrying your dog, or know that with their fur (or lack there of), they’ll be cold, pick a shorter hike where you can stay in control.

Of course you can never be too prepared for the mountains, but you can always aim to expect the unexpected.

Tip 3: Pack these necessities.

Even though dogs are wild animals and thrive out on the trail smelling all the smells, there are still steps to take to ensure your pup’s well-being is taken care of. I pack the following items for my dog and consider them necessities:

Dog first aid kit

You never know what your pup may step on or get into, so it’s best to have a first aid kit handy in case of emergencies, which are more common in the winter.

Backpack for her to carry

I have this backpack for Koah and it’s adjustable to her body. She’s had it from a young age and we conditioned her with an empty backpack, then slowly added weight evenly for her. It’s very easy to put on her and has a piece to attach a leash!

This comes particularly in handy for long, winter hikes when energy is expended and dogs need water and food. The perk of winter hiking is that there is usually a plethora of snow for dogs to eat to keep their bodies hydrated.

Collapsible food and water bowls

These foldable bowls are an absolute must. They are easy to wash and very lightweight. Tip: If your pup is picky, try to help the adjustment to these bowls by using them at home too. They are also great for travel!

Two towels

I don’t know about your dog, but it feels like mine actively seeks every opportunity on a hike to bring back as much dirt and mud as possible into my newly vacuumed car. If that sounds familiar, bring one towel for the post-hike mess. I love that my dog enjoys herself on a hike, but I try to clean

Dog food and treats

My dog rarely eats during a hike, so even though I pack food for her, she usually opts out. I bring treats to maintain training on the trail and provide her fuel in a more efficient way since she doesn’t eat on a hike otherwise.

Waste bags

Part of leaving no trace in the woods is picking up your pup’s waste. Always keep an extra bag or two on you (or in your pup’s pack).

Leash

As much as I love letting Koah run free in the woods, most trails require dogs to be leashed. Keep this in mind when passing other hikers on the trail.  

Personalized collar

Like I said before, expect the unexpected. You never know if your dog may get lost, or get loose from your leash. I purchased this collar and personalized it with my dog’s name and my phone number in case she ever gets away from me. Again, it has never happened to me, but it’s best to plan ahead.

Are you ready to take on the trails with your pup this winter? If you don’t have a furry friend, but still want to tackle the mountains in winter, explore my recommendations for gear below!

Hiking Cascade and Porter Mountains in the Adirondacks

Winter in the mountains is surreal. Growing up in Texas meant only seeing snow once or twice, and it was mostly ice. I am absolutely enamored by the winterscape in the northeast. From snow-capped peaks to the crunch of spikes in snow on the trail, to the summit sunsets that are more frequent with shorter daylight times. Selfishly I also enjoy having trails to ourselves and not heavy crowds.

This past week, we ventured up to the Adirondacks, a magical gem in New York that feels like New York’s best kept secret. It’s a long drive for many, and it’s not a national park, so it’s not extremely well-known. However, for hikers in New England, it’s a popular destination. Like the New Hampshire 48, there’s a list of 46 high peaks in the Adirondacks that results in accomplishment (and a patch, of course) if completed.

I’ve hiked a couple, but never in winter. Winter in the Adirondacks feels otherworldly to me because of my few trips up there. My first trip up was five years ago. One of my best friends who lived in Hawaii at the time sent me a picture of the Adirondacks and told me I should go. I made a day trip that weekend, which became the first of an annual fall foliage trip.

This trip, however, would be the first attempt of a winter trek in these vast mountains. We set our hearts on two of the 46: Cascade and Porter. After arriving in the early afternoon to a nearly empty parking lot, we set out on the 2.4 mile ascent to Cascade along the Cascade Mountain trail. The trail was packed down and clearly labeled. Right before the summit of Cascade, at about 2 miles, there is a y on the trail. One direction leading up to Cascade (head toward “privy”), and the other about .6 miles to Porter. We headed up Cascade first.

One of my favorite parts of winter hiking is the lowered probability of getting lost because you only have two options: follow the trail another hiker sweetly packed down for you, or dive into feet of untouched snow. Seems obvious.

The wind was brutal at the summit, so we descended almost as quickly as we made it above treeline. Beautiful bluebird days can be deceiving weather-wise since we were met with 20 mph winds producing a negative windchill experience atop Cascade.

Afterwards, Porter was a fast and beautiful jaunt with views of Cascade. I love ridgelines because you get to see how far your hike has taken you.

Cascade Mountain trail to the summit of Cascade Mountain (view from Porter Mountain).

We headed down Porter the way we came up and the rest of the hike was a swift and smooth descent. It was also our dog Koah’s first two of the 46! After this trip, I’m already starting to plan the next. The 46 just might be the next hiking challenge we take on.

Should the ADK 46 be our next list to take on? Have you hiked any of the 46 high peaks?