Twins Zealand Bonds Traverse
You know those mornings you’re so eager to wake up to? The ones where you wake up moments before your alarm in utter anticipation? One Sunday, this past October, was exactly that kind of morning for me. We cooked a hearty breakfast before dawn and loaded our packs for our adventure to snag my final 8 peaks of the 48.
The Route
After looking at which peaks I had left, I stared at a map trying to decide the best way to go about bagging them all. We headed up to the Twins on the North Twin trail, starting the morning with a steep ascent. North Twin to South Twin to Zealand to West Bond, Bond, and Bondcliff. We did this as an out-and-back, but skipped West Bond and Zealand (outlined in red on the map) on the return trip.
Elevation map below for the traverse.
North and South Twin
We parked at the North Twin trailhead at sunrise and began the two mile walk before the big climb. About a mile in, I turned on the trail and found myself encountering a moose face-to-face. A full-fledged, antlers as wide as the trail, moose. I felt pure awe. And shock. We slowly stepped backwards, off the trail, and watched him continue his Sunday morning stroll under he was out of our eye view.
I’ve patiently waited for a moose sighting for five years. To the point where I hoped one would cross the road when I drive past moose crossing signs on highways. In hindsight, it’s probably for the best I didn’t have my first encounter in that situation. Multiple trips to Maine, countless to the Whites, and even a two-week cross-country road trip out to Big Sky country didn’t help me cross off this bucket list item. This hike was off to an incredible start and it was only the first two miles of the day.
North Twin’s summit was well worth the arduous climb. I finally understood why hikers say the Pemigewasset wilderness is a Whites’ gem. The solitude alone was dreamy. We had each summit from North Twin to the Bonds to ourselves (aside from the finale at Bondcliff).
Zealand to the Bonds
From North Twin, we faced a muddy mile to South Twin, followed by a detour to Zealand where we were met with three relentless greyjays. Zealand was a tough addition to this traverse because we did it out and back before we headed to the Bonds. All the better for our return to avoid detours.
West Bond was incredible, but I started to hesitate at finishing this traverse due to daylight escaping us swiftly with Bond and Bondcliff still left on the itinerary. B carried me through the finish line with the descent down to Bondcliff. Honestly the views were jaw-dropping (fitting as we dropped hundreds of feet in elevation that we’d have to climb back up to get home). The bittersweet joy I felt heading into my final peak was met with glances over my shoulder to see that massive drop we made.
Bondcliff lived up to its hype and I couldn’t have picked a better day, partner, or peak to finish with. I set out to hike to 48 in August 2018 when I hiked up Lincoln and Lafayette with my roommates. On that hike, one of them said she’d love to hike the 48 before moving. I had never heard of the 48 before then, but I’m so glad that seed was planted that day because a little over two years later, I became an NH 48 finisher.
A 22ish-mile, ~7,000 ft gain, 15-hour day ended in the darkness of the Pemi wilderness. I don’t love night hiking, but it did present the opportunity of witnessing a mountaintop sunset on South Twin that did not disappoint. There may be more night hikes in my future to see sights like that again.
Until next time in the Whites.