Hike the Vermont 5 4,000 Footers Challenge

New England hikers love a good list. There’s the 48 in New Hampshire, the 14 in Maine, and the 5 in Vermont. If you’re extra adventurous, there’s the 46 in the Adirondacks in New York to complete for the Northeast list.

After finishing my 48 in the White Mountains in New Hampshire in 2020, I focused my efforts on smaller mountains in Lake Placid with the Lake Placid 9. In 2022, I reset my focus on 4,000 footers.

I decided to tackle the Vermont 5.

I actually hiked one of the Vermont 4,000 footers back in 2016 and then never hiked in Vermont again, despite several visits to the state’s charming towns. I ran races around hilly Stowe and set my eyes on Mt. Mansfield, but hadn’t hiked it yet.

At the start of 2022, I realized I could easily hike the four remaining 4,000 footers. Here’s how I took on the Vermont 5 in winter:

1. Camel’s Hump (4,083 ft)

I technically hiked this one in November before the official winter season, but let me tell you it sure felt like winter! My first year in New England, my friend invited me to Burlington, VT for the weekend and told me to pack hiking gear. This looked like my thickest cotton and basic hiking boots. I’m serious. Check out the pictures in this post if you don’t believe me.

We took the Monroe Trail out-and-back for six miles and around 2,500 ft gain. The views were absolutely breathtaking (could’ve also been the wild winds that took my breath away). I was hooked on winter hiking after this one. 360-degree views of the Green Mountains with a nice decent.

2. Killington Peak (4,235 ft)

This peak may have a reputation for incredible skiing and stunning views, but I couldn’t tell you if either are true after my hike. I was the only hiker on New Year’s Day at the parking lot. Excited to spend the start of the year outside, but nervous about the conditions.

As I embarked on the Bucklin trail, my worries dissipated. The trail was a moderate climb. Slowly and steadily, I ascended. Surprised by the sweat dripping down in the crevices of my arm as I gripped my backpack straps on my way up. Equally surprising? The hail that began to hit me like Monday morning’s alarm. I reminded myself that this was what winter was in the mountains of New England: a three-course meal ensuring your tongue had a little taste of everything. And I sure was hungry for it.

I spent very little time at the summit considering the hail, along with the incoming text informing me of the weather advisory in the area. It was also a complete wash, so that didn’t quite entice me to stay for the view. The way down was a speedy one. I ended with 6.85 miles logged and 2,559 ft of elevation gain on the out-and-back trail.

3. Mt. Abraham (4,006 ft)

I spent this winter eyeing the forecast like it was another one of my part-time jobs. With full-time teaching and marathon training on my schedule, there were only a handful of days that even allowed for a Vermont day trip. Let alone a day where the winds weren’t treacherous. Pro tip: I use Mountain Forecast to plan out my hikes. On the website, type the mountain you’re hoping to climb, and it gives you everything you need to know to make a smart decision: temperature, wind chill, wind miles per hour. All of it for the summit. I can’t tell you the number of times I went hiking when I was a beginner that I’d rely on my iPhone’s weather app and solely look up the small New Hampshire mountain town my hike started in.

I learned pretty quickly that the weather in town isn’t necessarily on the same communication channel. While it’s sunny and warm in town, it can easily be the complete opposite atop the summit.

I found easy parking along Elder Hill Road, but I assume it was due to winter dissuading the average hiker from weekend adventuring. From Elder Hill Road, the Battell trail is quick to spot. Another speedy one thanks to packed down snow, I took Battell to the end when it formed into the Long Trail.

Lincoln Gap Road has a shorter distance hike to the summit, but in winter this road is closed. Regardless, Battell is roughly a six mile out-and-back. The summit offers scaping views of the Green Mountains. There is an old airplane (remnants of a crash) along the summit ridgeline, but with all the snow at the time, I didn’t come across it. Always need to leave a reason to revisit though, right?

Summit views from Abraham.

With the parking lot in sight, I logged 5.84 miles and 2,700 ft of climbing total.

4. Mt. Ellen (4,083 ft)

When I parked on Jim Dwire Road, I thought I would be the only one out on the trail today. I almost missed the trail sign because it blended in so well. There were a few cars parked on the side of the road that indicated I was indeed, in the right place. A small dirt road on a residential street, why would I find anything strange with that?

As I made my way to the tiny sliver of trail from the trail sign, I thought about the week before when I was on the opposite side of these mountains. After such a great day meeting Abraham, I could hardly wait to meet Ellen. However, Abraham didn’t relay the memo to Ellen to pack down the fresh, fluffy powder for me.

It took me quite some time to make my way to the summit as I didn’t have snowshoes. I called Ellen just about every name other than her own as I struggled to the summit. The sun was setting soon and the temperature was dropping. I made it to the summit, only to be met with skiers swiftly speeding past me.

After a moment to enjoy the view, I raced against the daylight (usually a losing battle in winter) to return to my car before the sun called it a night. At 7.11 miles roundtrip and 2,700 ft ascended, I can confidently say I met Ellen, but she wasn’t my favorite.

5. Mt. Mansfield (4,393 ft)

Mt. Mansfield for the big finale felt fitting. As the tallest peak in the tiny state of Vermont, I wanted a clear day at the summit. I watched the forecasts and my training plan schedule, and finally found an opening in March that let me head up Mansfield.

I parked on Mountain Road in Underhill State Park and began my steady climb along another road that isn’t maintained in winter. The road was a decent climb, but quiet. I took the CCC road with a quick shortcut thanks to the Eagles Cut trail to get me onto the trail I set out for: Sunset Ridge.

Sunset Ridge is definitely a gem of a trail. There is plenty of exposure on the trail with a little rock scrambling. Normally I love that, but with some wild winds, I was nervous about taking this trail down. Sunset Ridge joins with the Long Trail near the summit for a totally exposed view of the Green Mountains, including a nearby ski lift. I had the trail that day (and the summit) to myself, and it felt like such a great way to finish off hiking the highest peaks in Vermont.

When it came to descending, my heart sank contemplating returning Sunset Ridge with how windy and exposed it was. However out of the two trails (Sunset Ridge and Laura Cowles) from Underhill State Park, Sunset was less steep.

A seasoned hiker told me to take Laura Cowles (the steeper, tougher trail) down and I’m so glad I listened! I was originally worried of exposure descending Laura Cowles, but that trail, from the summit, quickly turns forested. Before I realized, I made my way down to the road and logged 6.6 miles and 3,130 ft of climbing.

Have you hiked any of Vermont’s highest peaks? Would you take on the VT 5?

Twins Zealand Bonds Traverse

You know those mornings you’re so eager to wake up to? The ones where you wake up moments before your alarm in utter anticipation? One Sunday, this past October, was exactly that kind of morning for me. We cooked a hearty breakfast before dawn and loaded our packs for our adventure to snag my final 8 peaks of the 48.

The Route

After looking at which peaks I had left, I stared at a map trying to decide the best way to go about bagging them all. We headed up to the Twins on the North Twin trail, starting the morning with a steep ascent. North Twin to South Twin to Zealand to West Bond, Bond, and Bondcliff. We did this as an out-and-back, but skipped West Bond and Zealand (outlined in red on the map) on the return trip.

Elevation map below for the traverse.

North and South Twin

We parked at the North Twin trailhead at sunrise and began the two mile walk before the big climb. About a mile in, I turned on the trail and found myself encountering a moose face-to-face. A full-fledged, antlers as wide as the trail, moose. I felt pure awe. And shock. We slowly stepped backwards, off the trail, and watched him continue his Sunday morning stroll under he was out of our eye view.

I’ve patiently waited for a moose sighting for five years. To the point where I hoped one would cross the road when I drive past moose crossing signs on highways. In hindsight, it’s probably for the best I didn’t have my first encounter in that situation. Multiple trips to Maine, countless to the Whites, and even a two-week cross-country road trip out to Big Sky country didn’t help me cross off this bucket list item. This hike was off to an incredible start and it was only the first two miles of the day.

North Twin’s summit was well worth the arduous climb. I finally understood why hikers say the Pemigewasset wilderness is a Whites’ gem. The solitude alone was dreamy. We had each summit from North Twin to the Bonds to ourselves (aside from the finale at Bondcliff).

Zealand to the Bonds

From North Twin, we faced a muddy mile to South Twin, followed by a detour to Zealand where we were met with three relentless greyjays. Zealand was a tough addition to this traverse because we did it out and back before we headed to the Bonds. All the better for our return to avoid detours.

West Bond was incredible, but I started to hesitate at finishing this traverse due to daylight escaping us swiftly with Bond and Bondcliff still left on the itinerary. B carried me through the finish line with the descent down to Bondcliff. Honestly the views were jaw-dropping (fitting as we dropped hundreds of feet in elevation that we’d have to climb back up to get home). The bittersweet joy I felt heading into my final peak was met with glances over my shoulder to see that massive drop we made.

Bondcliff lived up to its hype and I couldn’t have picked a better day, partner, or peak to finish with. I set out to hike to 48 in August 2018 when I hiked up Lincoln and Lafayette with my roommates. On that hike, one of them said she’d love to hike the 48 before moving. I had never heard of the 48 before then, but I’m so glad that seed was planted that day because a little over two years later, I became an NH 48 finisher.

A 22ish-mile, ~7,000 ft gain, 15-hour day ended in the darkness of the Pemi wilderness. I don’t love night hiking, but it did present the opportunity of witnessing a mountaintop sunset on South Twin that did not disappoint. There may be more night hikes in my future to see sights like that again.

Until next time in the Whites.